endlich in Argentinien

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Dienstag 6.10.15 Abfahrt vom Paraiso Suizo nach Punta del Este. Schöne Küste mit vielen schönen Stränden. Aber noch kein Badewetter. Monumente de los Dedos, die Finger ragen aus dem Sand. Eindrücklich. Wir fahren weiter der Küste entlang. Da die Strasse durch einen Fluss getrennt ist und die Brücke erst im Bau, setzen wir mit einer kleinen Fähre über. Die nächsten 20 Kilometer rüttelt uns eine Ripio-Piste kräftig durch. Am Abend Stellplatz bei la Paloma, etwas ausserhalb der Ortschaft, beim Marinehafen. Michael und Sabine sind schon da. Theres und Peter haben uns in ganz la Paloma gesucht. Aber jetzt sind alle wieder beisammen. Nachts wieder viel Wind. IMG_5307 Mittwoch 7.10.15 Der Interbalnearia entlang fahren. Es ist trüb und ab und zu regnet es. Verschiedene Abstecher zu Badeorten am Meer. Barras de Valizas; noch halb im Winterschlaf, Hippie-Ort, sieht abgekämpft aus. Verlotterte Baracken, zusammen gestiefelte Hütten. Trostlos. Aguas Dulces; die etwas bessere Ausgabe von Barras de Valizas. Es ist noch gar nichts los. Punto del Diablo. Surfer-Paradies. Hübscher Ort, der auf dem Weg ist, chic zu werden. Wir stehen am Ufer mitten im Ort, sitzen im Brujito, trinken Kaffee und schauen den Surfern zu die auf die gewaltigen Wellen aufspringen. Cooool. Stellplatz im Parque Nacional Santa Teresa. Direkt über dem Meer auf einer kleinen Landzunge. Die Brandung rauscht gewaltig in die weite, flache Bucht. Genial schön.

Donnerstag 8.10.15 Weiterfahrt in Richtung Brasilien. Bei Chuy/Chui über die Grenze. Mitten durch die Ortschaft verläuft die Grenzlinie. Links von der Hauptstrasse bekommt man in der Bank nur Pesos und Dollares. Rechts von der Hauptstrasse Reais und Dollares. Das muss man erst mal wissen. Ausreise Uruguay ca 1km vor Chuy, Einreise Brasilien ca 1km nach Chui. Zmittag in kleiner Ortschaft, sehr einfaches Lokal, es zieht durch alle Ritzen. Wir essen um prato do dia, ein Stück Rindfleisch mit Spiegelei, Reis, schwarze Bohnen und Pommes. Wir fahren weiter, vor der Regenfront her, sie holt uns immer wieder ein. Die Strasse führt durch ein geschütztes Sumpfgebiet. Viele Vögel, Schwärme von kleinen hellgrünen Papageien, Fischreiher, Störche, Raubvögel und unbekannte Vögel. Meersäuli grasen am Strassenrand und dicke Capibaras. Tempo limitiert auf 50- 60kmh. Trotzdem viele totgefahrene Tiere. Ich fahre die letzten 2h. Stress auf den letzten Km. Am Abend Campingplatz zwischen Cassino und Rio Grande. Besprechen Weiterfahrt. Peter hat Ärger mit seiner Telefonkarte. Viel Zeit gebraucht, hat nichts gebracht. IMG_5426 Freitag 9.10.15 Abfahrt bei leichtem Regen um 10. Danach im Dauerregen 290km nach Guaiba. Links und rechts der Strasse stehen die Felder unter Wasser. Treffen uns mit den anderen Beiden. Michael möchte weiterfahren. Rota Romantica, Torres, Florianopolis, Blumenau und nach Curitiba hinüber nach Iguazu. Hausers und wir möchten Porto Alegre anschauen und hoffen auf besseres Wetter. Wir stehen am Ufer vom Rio Guiaba auf einem öffentlichen Parkplatz. Morgen Stadtrundfahrt. Am Sonntag in Richtung Rota Romantica. Spätestens am Mittwoch den 14.10 müssen wir uns an die Rückreise machen. Am Abend bei strömendem Regen ein Beizli gesucht und gefunden. Spaghetti mit Käserahmsauce und Filetstückli und dazu einen feinen chilenischen Cabernet. Das war etwas Balsam für unsere verregneten Seelen.

Samstag 10.10.15 Kassetten-Toilette ist auf rot! Tankstellensuche, WC leeren und Wasser füllen auf nüchternen Magen. Regenrisiko 70%. Die Regentropfen sind einfach etwas kleiner. Unangenehmer dichter Nieselregen bei Stadtrundfahrt im Touri-Bus. Die Fenster innen beschlagen und aussen klebt sandiger Regen. Sicht unter 30%. Heinz sieht ziemlich grün aus. Mit Taxi zurück zum Brujito. Heinz geht mit Bettflasche ins Bett. Am Nami beschliessen wir trotzdem in Richtung Rota Romantica zu fahren. Der Brujito streikt und muss angeschoben werden. Campingplatz bei Ivoti, im Sommer sicher idyllisch, jetzt einfach nur trüb und nass. Heinz mit Fieber im Bett. Hausers und ich stemmen einen Caipi in Gesellschaft von Gästen der Campingbetreiber. Einige sind deutschstämmig und sprechen sogar noch ein ganz spezielles Deutsch. Wir bekommen Einladungen zu Churrasco, Firmabesichtigung, usw. für den nächsten Tag. Marcos Buckowsky verspricht nach dem Brujito zu schauen. Na dann, gute Nacht.

Sonntag 11.10.15 Um 9.05 steht Marcos vor dem Camper, wie er versprochen hat und versucht heraus zu finden was defekt is. Leider sind seine Bemühungen ohne Erfolg. Die Zündung macht keinen Wank. Peter und Theres harren mit uns aus und schleppen den Brujito an. Im Regen fahren wir weiter, ohne Churrasco usw. Uns hält hier nichts. Die Strasse windet sich durch eine Hügellandschaft und wenn der dichte Nebel kurz aufreisst ahnt man dass es schön sein könnte. Camping Gramado, wir bleiben hier über Nacht. Heinz ist immer noch muderig, aber es geht ihm besser. Am Abend feines Essen in einem Café in der Nähe. Café und Spezialitäten-Laden. Da geht einem das Herz auf.

Montag 12.10.15 Feria da Crianca. Kindertag in Rio Grande do Sul. Feiertag. Keine Autowerkstätte offen. Wir fahren weiter über Sao Francisco de Paula. Zuerst unter der Nebeldecke, dann hindurch und es regnet zur Abwechslung. Bei Taquara lockern sich die Wolken etwas auf. Es gibt ihn noch, den blauen Himmel! In Montenegro hoffen wir eine offene Werkstatt zu finden. Fehlanzeige. Wir werden es morgen nochmals versuchen. Der Camping am Fluss steht unter Wasser. Wir übernachten im Landesinneren auf einem verlotterter Platz. Aaaaber….die Umgebung ist wunderschön. Ein kleiner Fluss, badende Enten, viele Vögel, in der Wiese ein Nest, die Brut wird im Formationsflug zu dritt verteidigt (ha grad echli Schiss gha). Und das Allerschönste, beim Eindunkeln blitzen Leuchtkäfer durch die Luft. Viiielfreu!

Dienstag 13.10.15 Früher Aufbruch. Der Autoelektriker analysiert die Störung am Brujito. Lötet und putzt ein Massekabel. Scheint kompetent, ist sehr freundlich. In der Zwischenzeit lassen wir unsere Wäsche waschen. Auto geflickt, erleichtert fahren wir weiter. Wir fahren voraus, Hausers gehen wandern und werden wieder zu uns stossen. Tagesziel ist bei Vernancio Aires, in einem schönen Park mit den verschiedensten Freizeit-Möglichkeiten wie Moto-Cross, Go-Cart, Reiten, Fussball, usw. Am Abend hören wir Musik und Gesang aus der nahen Mehrzweckhalle und gwunderig schauen wir hinein. Eine Gruppe Jugendlicher zwischen 14 und 20 trainieren Gauchotänze für ein kommendes Turnier. Wir werden herzlich eingeladen zuzuschauen, was wir noch so gerne machen und freuen uns über den Eifer und Können der Tanzenden. Gute Nacht. IMG_5361 Mittwoch 14.10.15 Weiterfahrt, Tagesziel Santa Maria. In Candelaria wollen wir Geld beziehen. Funktioniert jedoch nicht. 3 Bankangestellte bemühen sich eine halbe Stunde. Resultat. Mit unseren Karten haben wir keine Berechtigung bei der Banco do Brasil Geld zu beziehen?! Kaum wieder unterwegs ruft uns die Bank aus der Schweiz und endlich wird unser Konto entsperrt. Danke Bank! Santa Maria ist wenig aamächelig, also fahren wir weiter nach Rosario do Sul. Laut Pocket Earth gibts einen Camping am Fluss mit Sandstrand. Bei Ankunft die grosse Enttäuschung obwohl es zu erwarten war. Alles Überschwemmt. Vom Camping-Gebäude schaut nur noch das Dach aus dem Wasser. Aber es gibt einen Golfplatz in der Nähe, da wollen wir unser Glück versuchen. Unterwegs dahin, erneuter Versuch Geld zu beziehen. Und? …es hat geklappt! Kein Übernachten auf dem Golfplatz. Wir wollen weiterfahren, da springt unser Brujito wieder nicht an^¨*! Batterie trotz Tagesfahrt auf Null. Ein schwieriges Anschleppmanöver auf engem Raum. Am Himmel braut sich ein mächtiges Gewitter zusammen. Mit den ersten Regentropfen springt der Motor endlich an. Wir suchen Schutz bei einer Tankstelle mit Stellplatz für LKWs. Es stürmt und giesst wie aus Kübeln. Neben uns parkt ausgerechnet ein Kühltransporter. Ganze Nacht surrt das Kühlagregat.

Donnerstag15.10.15 Morgens um 4.15 Tagwache mit einem Donnerknall. Erneutes Gewitter mit Sturmböen die am Camper rütteln. Wir beschliessen an der Grenze zu Uruguay, in Santana do Livramento, bei einer Fiatgarage unser Glück zu versuchen um den Brujito flicken zu lassen. Bingo. Die Ursache ist schnell gefunden. Die Batterie, die Böse, ist kaputt. Der Mechaniker und Heinz holen zusammen eine neue Batterie. Diese wird eingebaut, eine kaputte Blinkerbirne ersetzt, der Wassertankdeckel geschmiert und als alles geflickt ist kostet es uns, ausser der Batterie, NADA. Welch eine Freundlichkeit und Hilfsbereitschaft. Nach einiger Hin- und Herfahrt, Brasilien-Uruguay-Brasilien und dann endgültig Uruguay, bringen wir die Grenzformalitäten hinter uns. Unser nächstes Ziel ist das Valle de Larejo, im Reiseführer als sehenswert beschrieben. Allerdings besteht die Überlandstrasse dahin mehr aus Löchern als Asphalt und in das Tal führt nur eine Piste. Ein flaches Stück Terrain am Wegrand dient als Stellplatz. Hinter uns hat Ramon Aires in einem grossen Steinsarg seine letzte Ruhestätte gefunden. Vor uns schaut ein Nandu über die Hügelkuppe. In der Ferne grasen Kühe und Pferde und der Tag verabschiedet sich mit einem grandiosen Sonnenuntergang.

Freitag 16.10.15 Tagesziel, Tacuarembo. Wir wählen die Route von Masoller in Richtung Ruta 31. Über 120 km üble Ripio-Piste. 8h unterwegs. Total kaputt erreichen wir den Camping bei Tacuarembo. Parken, kochen, schlafen.

Samstag 17.10.15 Duschen, Brujito entstauben (Staub überall, in jeder Ritze, jeder Kiste). Poschti-Liste, endlich gemütlich einkaufen. Gewollt. Spontane Einladung von einem Ehepaar, sie Lydia ist Uruguaya, er Antonio ist Italiener. Hopp, hopp einkaufen. Dann gehts zu ihrer kleinen Hacienda. Die Parilla wird eingefeuert, die Männer machen einen Ausritt. Zusammen mit den Eltern von Lydia sitzen wir um einen grossen Tisch und geniessen Chorizo und Tiro de Asado. Es ist ziemlich frisch, aber schönes Wetter. Wir übernachten nochmals beim Balneario de Ipora am Seelein.

Sonntag 18.10.15 Besuch Museo Carlo Gardel. Welches hauptsächlich den Beweis erbringen will, dass Gardel Urugayo war. Über sein Leben ist wenig zu erfahren. Aber er hatte eine sehr warme schöne Stimme. Die Chorizo en Salsa de Vino rojo im Beizli ist gelinde gesagt nicht sehr gut. Ausgekocht, knorpelig, zäh. Gulp! IMG_5489 IMG_5481

IMG_5508

Trotz einer weiteren Einladung bei einer Tessinerin ausserhalb Tacuarembos, beschliessen wir in Richtung Paysandu weiter zu fahren. Über zweihundert Kilometer, mehr Löcher als Asphalt! Wir übernachten bei den Termas de Guaviyu. IMG_5613 IMG_5643 Montag 19.10.15 Trüber Tag. Frust. Überwindung und Bad in der Therme. Abfahrt Richtung Trinidad. Fahrt im Regen. Die entgegen kommenden LKWs putzen uns fast von der Strasse. Jetzt höckeln wir in der Beiz, machen unser Büro und warten aufs Znacht. Übernachten im Park von Trinidad. Motor gedröhn und Donnergrollen mit Regen. Zum Glück macht das Gewitter einen Umweg.

Dienstag 20.10.15 Wasser bunkern, WC Kassette leeren. Alles kein Problem. Freundliche, hilfsbereite Menschen fast überall. Weiterfahrt nach San Jose de Mayo. Mitten im Ort parkiert. 1/2 Meter Pizza zu viert. Leider ist die Kirche ab 12 Mittag geschlossen. Kapok-Bäume, stacheliger Stamm und Äste, watteweiche Frucht. Genial. Weiterfahrt nach Nueva Helvecia. Schweizer Einwanderer-Ort. 1826 gegründet als Colonia Suiza. Auch Österreicher, Deutsche, Franzosen und Belgier siedelten sich hier an. Es gibt ein Hotel Suiza. Stellplatz am Mar de la Plata. Maieli möchte den schönsten Platz. Beim vielen rangieren gräbt sich der Brujito im Sand ein. S C H E I B E N K L E I S T E R! Wer hat Sandbleche dabei und zieht uns aus dem Elend? Einmal mehr Peter und Theres! Und kredenzen danach noch einen Sundowner. Irgendwie verkehrt, oder? und der zunehmende Mond hängt auch verkehrt rum.

IMG_5547

Mittwoch 21.10.2015 Weiterfahrt nach Colonia de Sacramento. Sympathisches, sauberes Städtchen mit einem alten Viertel. Viel Tourismus, vor allem Argentinier die für einen Tagesausflug mit der Fähre über den Rio de la Plata kommen. Wir schlendern umher, lassen uns von der Frühlingsstimmung anstecken. Kleiner, feiner Lunch. Finden einen guten Stellplatz in einer Sackgasse neben der Stadtmauer. Abendessen in der Bodegita, viel gepriesenes Chivito. Naja, grosse Portion, aber sonst durchschnitt. Ruhige Nacht.

Donnerstag 22.10.2015 Geburtstagsglückwünsche für Bruno und Regina. Zmörgele mit Vogelgezwitscher, emsiges Treiben in den Bäumen. Nester werden gebaut. Heinz nimmt die Aussendusche in Betrieb. Funktioniert einwandfrei. Weiterfahrt zur Bodega San Juan. Führung und Degustation mit Marcelo. Feiner Wein, dazu Picadas. Antike Gebäude, antiker Laden, heute Degustations-Raum. Hoffentlich bleibt es so erhalten. Ganz spezieller Charme. Übernachten auf Camping Playa la Agraciada, direkt am Rio de la Plata. Wurst bräteln an der Feuerstelle. Sonnenuntergang geniessen. Letzte Nacht in Uruguay.

IMG_5550

 

 

 

 

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4.638 thoughts on “endlich in Argentinien

  1. schön wieder von euch zu lesen! wird zeit, dass ihr ins gelobte land kommt: dort wird alles besser! viel spass und beso aus der sonnigen schweiz!

  2. Hey ihr lieben:-) so ein cooler Reisebericht <3. Wir wünschen euch viel sonne, wunderschöne stellplätze u pannenfreie weiterfahrt:-) denken viel an euch<3
    Herzliche Grüße aus dem herbst

  3. Hey ihr lieben:-) so ein cooler Reisebericht <3. viel sonne, wunderschöne stellplätze u pannenfreie weiterfahrt:-) denken viel an euch<3
    Herzliche Grüße aus dem herbst

  4. Olà, Heinz das Foto wo Du auf dem Pferd reitest ist soo cool! Freue mich, dass endlich geklappt hat, mich als Follower zu registrieren. Besos Vero

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