in Puerto Natales

In Calafate schlafen wir erst mal, wir stellen unseren Brujito am Strand auf einen Riesenparkplatz, es windet und pfeift und dröhnt…. aber wir schlafen gut und fest. Nach einem feinen Zmorge fahren wir an den Gletscher, auf einer guten Strasse erreichen wir den Eingang zum Park. Wir lassen unseren Wagen, steigen kurz in den Zubringer und geniessen bald den herrlichen Ausblick auf den Gletscher, den Perito Moreno.

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In recht gut organisatorisch angelegten Viehpfaden werden wir durch den Aussichtshügel geführt. 1000 Stufen hoch, 2000 Stufen hinunter… wir geniessen die einmalige Aussicht auf den Gletscher und zum Abschluss gibts für Maieli einen Whisky on the Gletscher-Rocks.

Wir fahren weiter, nach Cancha Carrera an der argentinischen Grenze. Mutterseelenalleine parken wir unsere Autos, nur ein paar Corderos, Pferde und drei mal Nichts geniessen wir die absolute Stille und den Abend. Am nächsten Morgen gehts über die Grenze nach Chile, nach Cerro Castillo, und vom Niemandsland über Pisten Richtung Nationalpark Torres del Paine.

Und dann passiert es… Peter erwischt einen spitzen Stein und einen Platten. Wir bringen das Reserverad nicht runter, alles ist verhockt und verdreckt und verklemmt. Wir demontieren das Rad, mit unserem Brujito gehts ins Hotel Explora, wo sie uns freundlicherweise den Reifen flicken. Glück gehabt, alles funktioniert und es geht weiter.

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Wir suchen einen Camping, finden ihn auch, allerdings mit knapper Infrastruktur. Unsere Gasheizung läuft zwar, aber eine Schraubverbindung ist etwas undicht…. wir essen im Riesensaal ganz alleine mit schöner Musik und einem Stück Salm.  Eine kalte Nacht mit Regen verwöhnt uns nicht übermassen, wir verlassen am frühen Morgen den Platz und fahren etwas zurück an die Hosteria Pudete. Es gibt sogar WiFi, wir sind verwöhnt.

Am nächsten Morgen gehts früh mit dem Katamaran an die Station Paine Grande, wir sind mitten im Trekkerparadies und dies bei bestem, wolkenlosen Wetter. Der Paine Grande, die Cuernos strahlen im Himmel und wir unternehmen mit Krücken und Lust auf mehr einen kleinen Trip in die Höhe. Zum Lago Grey reichts allerdings nicht ganz.

Abends gehts zurück, etwas unterkühlt und hungrig, und wir geniessen noch einmal die Nacht im Nationalpark. Am nächsten Morgen gehts auf der Schotter/Hotter/Rüttel-Strasse südwärts, aus dem Park und dem Meer entgegen.

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Ueber ausgesprochen schlechte Pisten erreichen wir den Hafen Puerto Natales. Der angepeilte Camping gibts niocht mehr, dafür können wir ohne Probleme unsere schweizer Gasflaschen auffüllen. Wir bringen die Wäsche in die Lavanderia, kaufen ein und geniessen einen Pisco Sour im Restaurant.

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73 Gedanken zu „in Puerto Natales

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