in Portillo

Valparaiso ist die grösste und wichtigste Hafenstadt von Chile. Eine uralte Stadt, wurde gebaut so im 16. Jahrhundert und in einer schönen Bucht mit rundherum 42 Hügelchen gelegen. Auf diese Hügel führen heute noch 12 Ascensores, so 50-100m Standseilbahnen. Heute ist dies natürlich mitten in der grossen Stadt integriert. Das Hafengebiet ist uralt, und seit dem letzten Erdbeben teilweise nicht wieder aufgebaut. Das direkt anschliessende Vina del Mar ist moderner, sauberer und touristisch und bald auch kommerziell wichtiger.

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aus dem Tagebuch von Maria…….

23.2.2016 Valparaiso, Caleta Portales

Trotz Tankstelle recht gut geschlafen. Der Brujito kriegt eine Morgendusche bei der Copec. Schön sieht er aus. Unternehmungslustig machen wir uns auf den Weg nach Valparaiso. Touri-Info Fehlanzeige. Wir kurven mitten durch die Stadt, finden zufällig doch eine Info und gleich daneben einen halblegalen Gratis-Parkplatz. Zu Fuss gehts mit Stadtplan in Richtung Ascensor Artilleria. Von 12 Standseilbahnen sind 8 in Betrieb. Hoch über der Stadt, auf dem Paseo 21 de Mayo, hat man einen fantastischen Blick über den Hafen und die Stadt die sich (laut Reiseführer) über 42 Hügeln ausbreitet. Zu Fuss gehts hinunter über steile Treppen und enge Gässchen. Holzhäuser, grössere und kleine, oft eher Baracken die mit Wellblech verkleidet sind, stehen an den steilen Hängen. Viele sind in leuchtenden Farben gestrichen. Da Valparaiso beim Erdbeben 1904 zum grossen Teil zerstört wurde, haben sich diese Holzhäuser bewährt. Zu Fuss gehts durch die Altstadt, es wimmelt von Leuten. In den Gassen Marktstände, Früchte, Gemüse, kleine Läden mit Waren für den täglichen Gebrauch. Fröhliche Stimmung. Die Leute kennen sich, rufen und lachen. Das gefällt mir.

Keine Möglichkeit bei einem der Supermärkte zu parkieren. In einem kleinen Laden das Nötigste gekauft. Wir übernachten in der Caleta Portales, beim Strand von Valparaiso und lassen uns zum Essen in einer kleinen Strandbeiz überreden. Nochmals Jardin de Mariscos, Kommentar überflüssig.

 

24.2.2016 Valparaiso, Seitenstrasse Pablo Neruda Haus

Am Morgen, auf dem Parkplatz, nur wir. Am Strand zwei, drei Backpacker. Nebel zieht von Viña del Mar her. Wäsche holen, einkaufen, Internet suchen. Ungemütlich an der Costa Nera. In Valparaiso lichtet sich der Nebel. Wir fahren zum Pablo Neruda Haus.

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Viele Besucher. Da, als grosse Überraschung, stehen Hausers vor uns. Wiedersehensfreude. Sie haben kurz vorher gemailt und ihre Ankunft angekündigt. Wir haben viel zu erzählen. Sie haben sich von ihrem Schrecken erholt, die Beschaffung ihrer Bankkarten und einer Fotokamera in die Wege geleitet. Der Camper ist repariert. Alles auf gutem Weg. Wir bleiben in der Nähe vom Neruda Haus, vor dem Wachposten der Gendarmeria. Wohlbehütet und umrundet von gefühlten hundert Hunden.

25.2.2016 Laguna Verde

Sonnenschein weckt uns. Zmörgele und danach parkieren wir direkt vor dem Neruda Haus. Ich kaufe ein Ticket und lasse mir einen Audioführer geben. Langsam gehe ich von Stockwerk zu Stockwerk und von Zimmer zu Zimmer. Neruda war ein begnadeter Schriftsteller, Diplomat und Nobelpreisträger. Aber auch ein Antiquitätensammler und Geniesser. Obwohl dieses Haus nach seinem Tod ausgeraubt und beschädigt wurde hat die später gegründete Stiftung es wieder hergestellt. Viele Dinge sind noch im Original zu sehen, Witziges und Schönes. Mir gefällt der Stil und natürlich die Aussicht vom Haus aus, über die Stadt und den Hafen. Fast zwei Stunden verweile ich. Bemerkenswerte Persönlichkeit.

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Danach gehen wir nochmals Gässeln. Wieder hinunter über unglaublich steile Treppen und Strässchen. Durch das Museo a Cielo Abierto, die Wandmalereien an den Häusern, teils gut erhalten, teils übersprayt, zerstört. In einem kleinen Gärtchen mit Blick auf das Neruda Haus lassen wir uns Empanadas schmecken. Adios Valparaiso, beim Verlassen der Stadt jage ich Heinz unabsichtlich zweimal die verrücktesten steilen Strassen hinauf. Anhalten und wieder anfahren unmöglich. Schwitz! Wir fahren zur Stadt hinaus an die Laguna Verde um uns nochmals mit Hausers zu treffen. Sehr schön sagt die Touri-Info. Abfallhalde wäre die bessere Bezeichnung.

26.2.2016 San Felipe, Camping Balneario Natural

Unsere Wege trennen sich. Es war sehr schön nochmals mit Hausers zusammen zu sitzen. Wenn alles passt sehen wir uns vielleicht nochmals. Buen viaje, mucha suerte, que vayan con dios.

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Wir sind unterwegs nach San Felipe, finden einen Camping. Grosse Anlage mit einem Naturschwimmbecken. Viele der riesigen Bäume vertrocknet. Es herrscht Wassermangel. Die Minen seien schuld. Die Sanitäranlagen sind unter aller Kanone. Da lob ich mir die Nasszelle in unserem Brujito. Freu. Aber die Leute sind freundlich und noch werde wir nicht beschallt.

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27.2.2016 San Felipe, Camping Balneario Natural

Nachdem uns schon am Morgen unser Campingnachbar mit Rap aus seiner Musikanlage beglückt hat, parkieren wir um, möglichst weit weg von den anderen Campern. Obs was bringt, werden wir ja sehen. Einkaufen und Internet suchen. In einem Café werden wir fündig, schreiben und mailen was das Zeug hält. Danach gehts zurück auf den Camping. Sonnenstore rausgekurbelt, Tisch und Stühle an den Schatten gestellt. Pisco-Time. SommerSonneSatt. Zum Znacht gibts feine Chorizos, Koteletts und Choclos. Danke Heinz, das Fleisch war wie immer super fein. Alles andere ist Beilage. ;0).

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…. wir fahren weiter, Richtung Argentinien. wir wollen über den Paso  los Libertadores nach Mendoza. Bei herrlichstem Sonnenschein geniessen wir die Fahrt nach Portillo, dem einst einzigen Skiort in Südamerika. Hier parkieren wir unseren Brujito und geniessen die Berge…….

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Zum Bettmümpfeli gibt’s im Restaurant Portillo ganz mutterseelenalleine einen feinen Znacht.

 

 

162 Gedanken zu „in Portillo

  1. Liebe Maria, lieber Heinz
    mit grossem Interesse und viel viel Freude begleiten wir euch in Gedanken auf eurer spannenden Reise. Vielen Dank auch für die tollen Reiseberichte und die Fotos! Bei jedem neuen Bericht von euch hallt es durch unser Haus: Schelberts haben geschrieben, es geht ihnen gut.
    Wir wünschen euch weiter noch viele schöne Begegnungen und unvergessliche Erlebnisse.
    Herzliche Grüsse
    Ruth und Martin

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